Just before IE’s second term we decided to skip out of Madrid for a weekend in Salamanca. Salamanca is a University town, boasting the oldest University in Spain (founded in 1218) which attracted the likes of people like Cristobal Colon [Christopher Columbus] throughout its history.  The center of town, holding most its sites, is very small and beautiful with almost ‘golden’ stone.  The golden glow in the stone is unique in Spain and is due to the “Villamayor Stone”, a type of sandstone coming from a quarry situated in Villamayor, a village close to Salamanca.

Outside of my travel book guides this website helped a bit in our preparation - About Salamanca Travel Guide.  We arrived to Salamanca by train which was approximately €20 each way from Chamartin station in Madrid (2.5 hours).  The Salamanca train station (an impressive place with movie theater, grocery store, gym and shops) is an approximately 15 minute walk to the center.

We selected Hostal Plaza Mayor to stay in and we weren’t disappointed.  The recommendation came from Rick Steves.  The hotel was but a few steps from Plaza Mayor.  Our room was quaint with carefully selected furniture and a clean bathroom.  Given the off season of our visit we paid only €67 per night.

Upon first arriving in Salamanca, it was still too early for dinner so we ventured out for an aperitivo at Meson Cervantes in Plaza Mayor.  The entrance was unassuming and often people stood at the door wondering if they were in the right place.  We did too.  Apprehensively making our way up the stairs our senses were soon attacked by the wafting cigarette smoke, clinking glasses, heavy scent of garlic and olive oil and drowned chatter which quickly reassured us we were in the right place.  The bar area was a cluttered room of people and ‘stuff’ that we had to push our way through to place our order. Three bar tenders worked feverishly behind the counter in a sort of assembly line as they hastily dished up cañas, vinos and tapas. With the order of our drinks we were asked if we wanted a tapita (little tapa…and free with our drinks) and if so, which did we want. We scanned the cases of Spanish specialties – gulas (tiny eels), various types of tortillas, calamares, morcillacroquetas (blood sausage), …and eventually selected a tortilla.

The slab of tortilla that came to each of us was not only twice the size of what we normally pay for in Madrid but it was filled with Tuna and topped with Alioli (a garlicky Spanish mayonnaise) and tomatoes – not common. It took only 3 drinks to realize that the night’s plan was changing – we weren’t going out for dinner anymore. Making our way through the options we came across something I’d also not seen before – a tortilla stuffed with goat cheese and topped with a strawberry sauce and kiwi. It was good!  On our entire trip we had lovely eating experiences surrounded and smashed up against a crowd of locals at multiple venues around the square.  I found that foods typical of Salamanca were Sopa de Ajo (Garlic soup), cochinillo (suckling pig), cabrito (goat), Jamon Serrano…and much MUCH more jamon and pork.

Breakfast both mornings was at Art Nouveau Cafe Novelty where we were served up rich, velvety cafe con leches with soft yet crunchy tostas (con marmelada melecoton or tomate).  The service was friendly and the patrons were of all types – from the very old, to families with small children, to University of Salamanca students who had clearly not yet gone home from partying the night before.

Ok, no we didn’t just eat and drink.  We caught some sites as well.  The nearly 800 year old University of Salamanca was incredible. We found the frog on the entrance facade immediately…we’re still waiting for our luck.  We also made our way throughout the two beautiful, massive, adjoining Gothic cathedrals - Nuevo and Viejo (New and Old) before walking the Roman Bridge (much of it is still original) for breathtaking day and night views of Salamanca.  The city is extremely walkable and small enough to allow for you to catch each site multiple times throughout the day to catch them in the sunlight or lit up at night.

Happy travels!