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Enjoying a well-made cocktail after a rough week of work on a Friday is a habit Raul and I have developed since we moved to Madrid two years ago. The city has a wealth of high-quality “cocktail bars” and Raúl and I seem to have made it our mission to try as many different ones as our schedule permits (in the name of Guiri Guide research, of course). I thought I would share with you all some of our favorites:

O’Clock: this place is fantastic. It is like being transported to an old cocktail bar in England a hundred years ago.  Even though I am a non-smoker, I feel like I should light up a cigar or break out a pipe.from the second I walk in there In addition to the old-fashioned atmosphere, the drink list is varied and extensive and the servers are both knowledgeable and amable.

Del Diego: The thing that stands out the most in this famous cocktail bar is the service. No more than a second after walking in the door, someone is there to find a place for you to sit at a table, stand at the bar, etc. The bartenders are real pros as well. This place is un clásico on the Madrid cocktail circuit and anyone who is a fan of a well-mixed libation should make a point of stopping by here.

Gin Club: Of all of the places we have tried, this one has our favorite gin and tonic, which given the name is not all too surprising. It’s small, very dark and always crowded, but it is definitely worth it for the real gintonic aficionado.

Bristol Bar: This lovely cocktail bar/restaurant is fun and unique. It has a quirky British style, a huge selection of gins, and the type of menu you do not see in many places in Madrid (think brunch and English breakfast on the weekends, and a la carte selections such as steak and Guinness pie, fish & chips, the Codfather, etc.)

Shuzo’s: this small, unassuming bar makes a surprisingly awesome gin and tonic, and at €10 for a G’Vine and fever tree, it is a reasonably priced one as well (especially for Madrid and particularly Salamanca). This is another place that is always hasta arriba, but with the undeniable charm of its Japanese owner coupled with the fact that you can order a tapa of sushi with your drink, this is not hard to believe.

Buenos Aires Cocktail Lab: this relatively new drink joint is an undiscovered gem. It has a sleek, modern atmosphere with chill music and a very creative list of cocktails based in part on the specialties of the owners’ bartender friends. I had one the other night with pepper vodka and it was ridiculously good and very unique. I do not give this place much more time before the locals find out and this place gets packed.

¡Salud!

This past September 15th marked my two year anniversary in Madrid. This milestone (which came incredibly quickly by the way) prompted me to do some reflecting about life and learning since moving to Madrid:

  • Spanish food and wine have exceeded my expectations in every way. Neither my semester in Valencia in 2001 nor the emergence of Spanish cuisine in NYC exposed me enough to the diversity in the Spanish dining landscape.  From the fabadas and sidra in Asturias to the pescaito frito and Manzanilla in Seville, I have never before been so gastronomically stimulated.
  • Making friends was harder than I thought. Before I came here, I had visions of making loads of new friends at work, whether through happy hours, apartment parties, long nights at the office or what have you. That has not been the case. I learned that (at least at the company I work for) happy hours and apartment parties are not a big thing here (as compared to the States) and people, while extremely friendly, are generally not really looking to make new friends. While I have been greeted with nothing but kindness, the experience was more isolating than I expected. Luckily I was able to connect with some fellow expats (and the amigos of my Spanish novio) and have finally been able to expand my local network and feel much more at home.
  • Transportation in Madrid (and Spain for that matter) is world-class. The Madrid metro is spotless and efficient (albeit a bit overcrowded during rush hour), the bus lanes should be a model for other big cities (take note NYC), the roads seem to have been designed in hindsight (the way the traffic flows in certain parts of the city is genius) and the national AVE rail always manage to make the proverbial “journey” a pleasure.
  • Embarrassingly enough, I still cannot say “Hasta luego” and “Madrid” properly (despite my best efforts).  I feel like a poseur every time I try to pull it off like a native. I have no idea why these words are so hard for me, but they just do not and will not roll off my tongue. Anyone else have this problem?
  • Working in Spanish has been easier than I thought (but certainly not easy).  As I noted in an earlier post, I was initially terrified of working in Spanish, especially in the high-pressure corporate environment that I was thrust into upon arriving here. I am happy to report that my fears, while healthy, were mostly unfounded. My coworkers and clients have immeasurable patience with me, enough people know English to help me out when I stumble, and even when I make mistakes, people usually get the idea. Due to all of these factors, I was able to get by until I improved, which happened rather organically through the 10+ hour per day trial by fire.
  • I am finally (finally!) getting used to the vast difference in size of the unspoken “personal space sphere” in Spain versus the US.  Take the metro, walk down the street, see for yourself. I have never in my life stood so physically close to people when it is not mandated by a lack of space.  This elevator is huge – why are you so close to me?!  We are walking right at each other, why won’t you yield?! After two years I have finally come to accept this cultural difference and my daily anxiety levels have decreased as a result.  Serenity ahora.

After two years I can confidently say that I feel really at home here.  I found a network of people that I can trade stories and spend time with, I am in a good routine at work, I know my way around the city quite well, and I know almost everything on the menu when I go out to eat.  For those of you just arriving in Madrid, know that this level of comfort takes time and patience, and the trials and challenges along the way are those things that make you appreciate getting there even that much more in the end.

As someone who was born and raised in the New York metropolitan area, I consider myself a bit of a pizza snob.  Luckily for me, moving to Madrid did not mean having to give up my consumption of delicious pizza on a far too regular basis.  The city has a wide range of pizza options so I wanted to share some of my favorites for those who share my pizza tooth:

Pizzaiolo: This small pizza restaurant on Hortaleza is arguably my favorite place to get pizza in Madrid. It was first recommended to us by our Italian friend, and after having eaten there several times, I can see why.  The generous pies have a superb crust and the toppings are all fresh and perfectly seasoned. The Primavera, with jamón Serrano and arugula, is a personal favorite. They also have a variety of pasta dishes which all look delicious, but I can never seem to deviate from the pizza. A word of advice – this place is almost always packed. Try to make a reservation if possible, and if not, swing by about 30-60 minutes before you want to eat and they will take your name and number and call you when a table opens up.  Raul and I have done this several times since there are a million places nearby to have a pre-pizza wine or caña.

Fratelli la Bufala: This new place opened up only a few months ago and it has already turned into a bit of a hot spot.  On the corner of Calle Santa Teresa and Calle Argensola, this global franchise with roots in Milan finally opened up its first outpost in Madrid (there are existing restaurants in, among other places, Barcelona, Miami, London and Istanbul).  Needless to say, Raul and I went there immediately and really enjoyed it.  The restaurant, which prides itself on its natural and fresh ingredients, features pizzas that are all made to order in a fire-burning oven.  There was also a nice wine list and some pasta and salads that looked appetizing as well. The waiter told us the tiramisu was noteworthy, but after the rather generous servings of pizza, we just could not keep eating.

Toto e Peppino: Toto e Pepino has the feel of a place that has been around forever.  The ambience is the opposite of trendy, but the pizza is quite good, albeit a bit pricier than some of the other options listed.

Pizza Marzano: This is a Spanish chain restaurant that I went to with my parents. It does not have the cozy and/or authentic feel that some of the other ones have (it definitely has more of that “chain restaurant ambience”) but it is a large place with a big menu that is not a bad option if you are in the city center.

Duomo´s: Duomo´s is for those nights where you just need pizza delivered to your door. While the pizza is nowhere near the caliber of the pizzas above, I find it much better than the other chain delivery options that I have tried (i.e. Telepizza and Domino´s).   With the “menú para dos”, consisting of a medium pizza, two drinks and a side for €17, the price is also a positive factor.

Let me know in the comments any other pizza places worth checking out in Madrid.  ¡Mangiare bene!

Pizzaiolo

Calle Hortaleza, 84

Fratelli la Bufala

Calle Argensola, 7

Toto e Peppino

Calle Fernando VI, 29

Pizza Marzano

Various

Duomo´s

Various

 

I’m proud to announce that I’ve finally mastered Spanish wedding attire. On the other hand, I’m embarrassed to admit that it took me so long. With a closet full of American dresses, I suppose I’ve been in denial that my guiri gear just isn’t up to Spanish wedding snuff. Clearly it’s not, and mostly I’ve spent a few years looking like a foolish foreigner.

Awhile back, Jamie posted a handy survival guide for Spanish weddings to, among other things, help us avoid mid-fiesta fatigue and overdoing it on alcohol. But because I’m a slave to la moda española, I thought it might also be helpful to spread the wedding-garb gospel. So with that, a list of do’s and don’ts so that you, my fellow extranjeras, don’t commit a fashion faux pas at your next Spanish boda:

    Do wear long dresses during fall and winter weddings or to night weddings if it will be fresquito.

    Don’t wear short dresses during cooler months without nylons or tights. If you do, be prepared to address a barrage of Spaniards interrogating you about how cold you must be.

    Do rock a fascinator, but be sure to take into consideration what time of day the wedding is. Daytime weddings call for larger fascinators or even hats, while smaller tocados are appropriate for evening events. At some weddings the look is a fashion staple, while at others hardly anyone embraces the trend – in the end, it’s perfectly acceptable to go fascinator-free.

    Don’t wear a dress that could easily double for church-wear or dinner out with friends. While some dresses do have cross-over potential, in general, it’s safe to assume if your dress is casual enough to wear to Sunday brunch, it’s too casual for a Spanish wedding.

    Do bring a shawl to cover up or keep warm because it’s going to be a lonnnggg night.

    Don’t use just any old handbag. Make sure you have an outfit-appropriate clutch or cocktail purse.

GG Tip: Old bridesmaids dresses make for the perfect Spanish wedding attire. Style up the look with a tocado, and no one will even know you’re a guiri (unless you’re blonde and apparently have “I’m an American tattooed on your forehead” like me).

Now who’s getting married? I’ve got all the gear and need some weddings to go to.

Weekend in an albergue

September 6th, 2011 | Posted by JLynch in Jamie | Traveling outside Madrid - (2 Comments)

 

Entrance to the sleeping quarters

Anyone know what an albergue is?  Neither did I, until I rolled up to one this weekend and discovered that it is what one might refer to in English as a rural hostel/self-catering dude ranch.   Together with a group of friends, we decided to stay in a typical albergue this past weekend in the province of Cuenca.    

 

Us taking over the bar/restaurant

The three hour drive from Madrid brought us up a long dirt road to this remote complex near the small village of Cañete.  As luck would have it, although the albergue held upwards of 52 guests (in only six bedrooms), our group of 17 was the only one that had decided to stay this weekend.  I have to say, I was quite relieved that things worked out this way as I feel like I am on the wrong side of thirty to be sharing a room with 24 bunk beds with total strangers for an entire weekend.  Anyway, we were also able to take over the now uninhabited bar/restaurant that is on the premises.  This was truly the highlight, as we made full use of the industrial kitchen to prepare kilos upon kilos of steak, chorizo, sausage, pancetta, etc. that we brought in and were able to buy kegs of beer and hook them right up to the bar tap. We could not have possibly made ourselves more comfortable and at home. 

The rural setting also featured a small farm onsite that had horses, a greyhound, a one-eyed lab and a delightful potbellied pig.  It was nice to be able to break up the eating and drinking marathon with a horseback ride and some fresh, mountain air.  The complex also had several bicycles available for use, a playground and a basketball hoop, making it friendly for a family or group of families as well. We also made our way into the nearby village to stroll through the Plaza Mayor and the plaza de toros, as well as take in some of the medieval remains scattered throughout, including a wall, or muralla, that previously enclosed the pueblo.

Spending a weekend in an albergue was a great way to catch up with friends, escape the chaos of Madrid, and practice the two other national sports of Spain – eating and drinking. It was a low-cost, laid-back alternative to going to a city, and helped me recharge a bit before heading back to the end-of-summer reality. If you have a group of friends looking for a rustic, Spanish weekend, I would definitely consider giving this place a try; it is definitely something to write home about.

 

Albergue Mayorazgo

Cmno. Chorradero s/n

N-420 Km. 499

16300 Cañete (Cuenca)