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Shana came to Madrid in 2009 for a brief summer study program and couldn’t stay away for long. Immediately after finishing university, she came back in September 2010 and has since been spending her time navigating the English language with primary school children and constantly rediscovering all of the charms that captured her for the first time.

While I am of the firm belief that Madrid is a fantastic and beautiful place in all seasons, all bets are off once the crisp autumn air rolls into the city. The leaves change, the oppressive summer heat subsides, and the siesta begins yielding to an afternoon stroll through the always enchanting Parque Retiro. However, to fully enjoy this season, you must first equip yourself correctly. Everybody–guiri or otherwise–wears scarves here, both for form and for function in the colder months. Long or square, thick or thin, solid or patterned? They are the perfect accessory when the wind begins to blow, not to mention they might make you look a little bit more Madrileño! Don’t have any scarves? Don’t worry. Head over to El Rastro next Sunday morning and you will find scarves of all patterns and colors, starting as cheap as 2€ each.

A Madrid autumn also comes with plenty to do. Every year in late October/early November, Madrid’s Jazz festival begins and brings world-famous names and acts to the capital city. Individual tickets begin around 10€, with shows held in the Auditorio Conde Duque (Metro: Noviciado), Teatro Fernán Gomez (Metro: Colón), and Teatro Circo Price (Metro: Atocha). This year, the festival runs from the 2nd of November to the 4th of December and is sure to entertain.

A great place to see the fall colors is Aranjuez, just south of the city. A quick cercanías train ride from Atocha, Aranjuez is a charming town with good food, a grand palace, and incredible gardens. While this town is often visited in the summer via its famous Strawberry Train, the gardens are best viewed after the summer heat disappears and the orange leaves begin scattering themselves along the walkways. Be sure to bring your camera with a fully-charged battery, because maxing out your memory card on this journey is a given.

If you’re more of a summer person, don’t fret–the warm weather will be back before you know it. Until then, bundle up with one of your newly-purchased scarves and return to enjoying sangria’s cold-weather cousin, the ever-reliable vino tinto.

Guiri Guest Laura is a recently-arrived English Language and Culture Assistant. She graduated from university in the Spring and is exploring the options that Madrid has to offer for her varying interests in fiction writing, Spanish, teaching, and Journalism. She is from the United States and is still figuring out all the little things that Guiris have to master to become true expatriates in this city.

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Abono

I thought I learned a lot of Spanish when I was in high school and college. I realized when I got to Madrid that my Spanish is not so much bad as it is odd, out of sync with local convention.

It all added up to me being mildly terrified of everyday encounters with Spanish-speaking people. I felt very brave whenever I walked into a shop and actually asked for what I wanted and was understood, even a little bit.

I live in a suburb, so the Metro system is a daily need. In order to do almost anything, I need to take the metro or bus, and the 1.50E-a-pop tickets (or 9.30E for ten trips) get pretty expensive.

This meant that I needed to apply for an Abono, a monthly pass that allows me unlimited rides on buses and metro in the city. Despite my fear, I had to go and talk to real people in multiple shops in order to get what I needed. Through my own errors, I learned the steps it takes to get your hands on one of these excellent money-saving tools.

  1. Determine your needs – Check out this page in order to determine whether your age qualifies you for a discount. Also, this is the place to figure out what zone you want. Some people who work in the outskirts need a particular pass, which is more expensive but still far less than individual tickets.
  2. Acquire photos – In metro stations and at any photo shop around Madrid, you can get “fotos carnet,” which are a specific size photo that is used for a lot of official documents. You may need them for other things, so don’t worry if they are sold in batches of 6 or 8. You will also want to get a photocopy of your passport.
  3. Visit an Estanco – These are the Tabacco shops that are all over Madrid. While some are open in the afternoons, I recommend visiting in the morning. You can apply for a regular abono on the spot, or fill out the paperwork for an abono joven, the one with the youth discount, which will be available in 15 days, either at that Estanco or by mail to your address. There will be a nominal fee (less than 5E) for the abono’s plastic wallet.
  4. When your Abono Arrives – you will still need to purchase your monthly ticket. The easiest way to do this is go into a metro station and find a ticket machine. It will have you insert the card wallet, which will allow you to purchase your monthly ticket.
  5. Use your Abono – Remember you can purchase next month’s pass using your card wallet a few days before the next month using the machines.

Believe me, the process and the talking-to-people-in-Spanish were well worth getting my abono and having unlimited public transit.

Getting Halloween Ready in Madrid

October 18th, 2011 | Posted by JLynch in Jamie | Shopping - (3 Comments)

Even though it still feels like summer in Madrid, Halloween is fast approaching.  Like many an American, I have been thinking about and planning my costume for quite a while now, so this past weekend I set out to get some supplies in order. Through the power of the internet, I was lucky enough to discover a store in the ABC Centro Comercial on Calle Serrano called PARTY FIESTA.

Knowing Spain and its general lack of Halloween costume culture, at least in the 12 and over set, my expectations were pretty low going in.  In the interest of giving credit where credit is due, I have to say I was genuinely impressed with the size of the store and the selection.  There was not the same “let’s turn a current event or viral video persona into a costume” thing as there is back home, but the basics were more than covered. I was particularly impressed with the make-up/fake blood/wig selections (I was told approximately 1 in 2 Spaniards is either a witch or a dead person, so this comes as no surprise).  There was also a decent assortment of Halloween party props and accessories, such as the multi-color strobe light of some sort that the couple in front of me in line was purchasing.

PARTY FIESTA, as the name implies, also has lots of supplies for parties in general (kids’ birthdays, holidays) such as decorations, paper goods, balloons and the like.

As I head back to the world capital of Halloween next week to attend the big parade (er, and also to get married), I can safely say that Madrid did not let me down.  This “Bride of Frankenstein” to-be will not be any less spooky than if I purchased my garb in the belly of the beast itself.

Party Fiesta

Calle Serrano, 61 (there are also many other locations throughout the city)

Hailing from the US, Cassandra Gambill is an inquisitive (read: nosey) guiri who has been demystifying the English language in Madrid since 2010. While being addressed simply as “profe,” was startling at first, she has grown to enjoy it. Here Cassandra guides Guiri’s through a new store concept in Madrid….

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I was thumbing through a rack of sweaters when a new customer poked her head hesitantly in. The owner jumped up to greet her, asking if she knew how the establishment worked.

“It’s a trueque, a trade. You bring in items, receive points for them, and then use those points to take things from the store. ” The newcomer continued to eye up the shop, wondering what to make of such an idea. She paused for a moment, choosing her words.

“Hmm. I knew that Malasaña was known for alternative shops, but this is a really different approach.” She never came in from the street.

The idea is catching on, albeit slowly; since I first visited Ábrete Sésamo in June, the space has filled up and out. Customers—for lack of a better term—trade in all manner of clothes, shoes, bags, movies, CDs, and household items. I’ve come across lamps, dangly earrings, books in English, French, Russian, and Spanish, and sets of teacups in this cavernous room that’s a cross between a Salvation Army and a consignment shop.

Even though it is taking time to catch on with the locals—the owners mentioned that September was a particularly slow month—“Open Sesame” is filling a gap in the Madrid market. How many times have you noticed a perfectly good dress dangling from the top of the dumpster, books thrown in the trash cans, or chairs sitting on the curb? Jose Manuel and Emanuela, the duo behind the tienda, aim to get others to breathe new life into old or unwanted items. They are promoting consumo responsable, or ethical consumerism, the idea of consuming less and being conscious of what impact our spending habits have on the world. Ideally, one should take away as much as one brings in—the concept will never work if customers remain on one side of the bringing-taking equation.

Indeed, it is possible to take out items without bringing in anything to trade. This, though, will cost you significantly more than if you had simply brought in a few of last year’s scarves. Here’s how it works: if you do not bring in any tradeables, you can buy 50 points for 10 Euros. If you do bring in items to trade, you will still have to pay a bit of money—this is how the store pays rent—but you will pay considerably less.

Each item is worth a certain number of points depending on what it is and what quality it is in. Books, for example, start at 5 points, while shoes are 35 and up. If the total number of points for items you bring in tallies less than 120 points, you will pay 8 Euros for the right to trade in the store. If the points total between 120 and 240, then you pay 10 Euros. 240 to 400 costs 15 Euros and 400 and up is 20. The best deal for those wanting to bring in multiple loads is to spring for a month-long pass; for 20 Euros, you can bring in as many picture frames, travel guides, and jackets as your heart desires.

A handwritten card as well as an electronic account keeps track of how many points you have to play with. No matter how much you pay for this initial start-up cost, your points never expire. That is, you never have to pay again and can come back months later if you suddenly realize you need to pick up baby clothes.

In addition to the give and take of the trueque system, Ábrete Sésamo also offers creative workshops. There are courses—given in Spanish—on crafting handmade soap and giving your furniture a facelift.

Ábrete Sésamo is located on Calle Noviciado 9, www.abretesesamotrueque.com. The store is open from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

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Cassandra’s Spanish travels and travails are documented at www.geecassandra.com.

As many of you know, moving to a foreign country on a long-term basis is a huge step in one’s life that usually involves an extended period of transition. One of the things that helped me to deal with the emotional impact of moving to Spain and away from my family, friends and everything I knew was to read about the real-life experiences of others. I found a lot of inspiration in hearing about the different men and women who have overcome the various obstacles associated with expat life and went on to thrive and find happiness.  One of the best books of its kind that I have found is called Lunch in Paris by Elizabeth Bard.

Lunch in Paris is the true tale of an American woman from New Jersey who left it all behind to move to Paris and be with the love of her life (something I could certainly relate to on a number of levels!).  Bard is refreshingly honest about not only her initial excitement (Paris! Baguettes! Museums! Romance!), but also the associated difficulties (loneliness, finding work, communication issues, guilt, etc.).  I truly felt like I could relate to almost everything she said. The parts about meeting the foreign in-laws were particularly relatable as the nerves coupled with the communication and cultural barriers make it a very daunting task.

Enriching the novel was her French cultural immersion through her exploration and growing love for the local cuisine. She adds flavor to her various stories by describing in detail the food she consumes along the way, and puts the corresponding recipes in the back of each chapter. After reading at length about how scrumptious her mother-in-law’s poached cod was the first time they dined together, it was a nice treat to have the recipe laid out just a few pages later.  I have been having a similar love affair with Spanish food since I arrived so it was not hard to imagine the same thing in another country.

I think this book would appeal to those not in the same situation as well. The author has a voice that many people can identify with and the real life love story she tells is also quite charming.   The recipes are appealing (I tried a handful) and her observations of Paris through the eyes of a young American are witty and smart to boot.  For those who are interested, I am sure a copy will turn up eventually at my beloved J&J Books & Coffee!