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Author Archives: JMurphy

Since it’s inception a couple of years ago, Fashion’s Night Out (FNO) has become a global multi-day event where retailers can drum up business and the savvy shopper can score a freebie or two.  When I struggled to get a cab last year in New York, I realized that this event was becoming serious business and now that Madrid has over 340 shops signed up to participate, I am eagerly looking forward to this year’s fashion extravaganza!  In Madrid, FNO is scheduled for Wednesday, September 7 2011.

The basic concept is that fashion brands and shops will stay open late into the evening (often until midnight or beyond) to allow shoppers time to peruse their displays and latest season’s collection.  Often, the shops will have music, free demonstrations or services and special discounts for FNO shoppers.  The perks vary based on the shop, but you can find out all the deals and plot out your approach based on the information Spanish Vogue has posted on their website.

For those who prefer to shop at home or who can’t make it to the events, check out the online deals also on offer.  And if you’re still travelling on your vacaciones, check out the other offers worldwide … as I said, FNO is a global event!

To get the latest updates follow @FNOMadrid on Twitter or VogueEspana on Facebook.

Beach hopping on the Costa de la Luz

August 27th, 2011 | Posted by JMurphy in Janine | Traveling outside Madrid - (0 Comments)

Playa Bolonia, August 2011

After moving to Madrid and exploring the city a little bit, it’s fun to start learning about and checking out other parts of the country.  During the summer, most of Madrid heads for the beaches and even though September is almost upon us, the Costa de la Luz (coast of light) is still a great destination.  With average temperatures for September and October still in the mid 20s it’s a great time to check out the beaches and pueblos without the crazy August crowds!

I recently took a couple of weeks to explore southern Spain and I found several great little towns and beaches south of Cadiz that are worth exploring.  I am already planning my next trip back!  About a quarter of an hour drive south of Cadiz is the bustling beach town of Conil de la Frontera.  Fun for families, couples or groups of friends, the old town is full of ourdoor cafes, restaurants and bars.  It’s great to grab a table outside for dinner and then wander around checking out the shops, stopping for a helado or another caña or two!  There are two beaches along the coast of the town – Playa de los Bateles and Playa de la Fontanilla; however, there are several more within a short driving distance.  Just north of town, Fuente del Gallo has a lovely little beach with a chiringuito (beach bar) right on the sand.  It’s a nice drive to keep heading north, past Playa Aciete and up to Playa del Puerco.

South of Conil, the drive and the beaches are just as lovely.  Bolonia beach was a great escape with smaller crowds even during August.  It has a large sand dune at one end which is a fun climb for a bit of exercise.  There are a handful of chiringuitos on the other end of the beach to grab lunch or a drink.  Closer to Conil is El Palmar, which is famous for it’s sunsets.  It has a little grocery store and a cafe located nearby so you can pick up some bebidas or a snack, watch the kites flying and wait for the sunset.  While both these beaches can be accessed within a short drive from Conil, another option is to move to a hotel further south in Zahara de los Atunes, Vejer de la Frontera or one of the few scattered on the beaches just north of Tarifa.

El Palmar at sunset

The Tarifa beaches are known for windsurfing and I couldn’t help but give it a try while at Playa Valdevaqueros.  There are rental facilities on-site (http://www.club-mistral.com/en/home) and they offer individual, semi-private or group lessons.  I was a complete beginner so luckily my instructor had a lot of patience … although I think I need a few more lessons before I will really take off!  Kite surfing and paddle boarding are also available.  The restaurant and bar at Valdevaqueros is a very laid back, surfer-style hangout. There are big cushions setup on the grass next to one of the bars and they had live music one afternoon before sunset.  A bit more lively happy hour can be found just down the road at Arte y Vida where the staff are covered in body paint and you could be too!  The bar and the DJ get busy a few hours before sunset.  After a day of sun, sand and watersports, if you still have the energy head into Tarifa town where the nightlife is energetic and keeps on going well into the morning hours.

Club Mistral, Tarifa on the N-IV highway at the Valdevaqueros Hotel.

Arte y Vida - CN 340 Km. 79,3; 956 68 52 46

Whether you are just moving to Madrid or returning from vaciones, the Piscina de Verano at the Universidad Complutense Madrid provides a perfect way to beat the summer heat!  The large olympic-size swimming pool is great for some exercise al fresco or just the occasional dip to cool off while sunbathing.  Surrounded by grassy areas and tables with umbrellas for eating your snack from the cafeteria it’s a nice spot for chilling out during these remaining days of summer.

Located close to Parque del Oeste, the pool is open through September 8th from 11am until 8pm.  I have been a couple of times this week and it was not very busy, but I have heard from friends that it is best to go early if you want some peaceful time to get in some laps.  I also heard that no children are allowed and indeed I have not seen any in the pool.  General admission costs €8 and students from other universities can also get a discounted rate of €6.50.


Piscina de Verano UCM

Calle del Obispo Trejo near Calle de Martin Fierro

Metro: Moncloa or Ciudad Universitaria

 

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Shortly after moving to Madrid, I set out to explore the city’s parks and green spaces.  I started with Parque del Buen Retiro (read recent Guiri Guide posts here and here) and then headed over to the Parque del Oueste.  With my brother in tow, and luckily also my camera, we started at the Templo de Debod and then headed further north into the park.  I was pleased to find lovely green spaces with plenty of room for picnics, strolls with our dog, cycling and even skateboarding!

We then wandered down a small path and happened upon the beautiful and peaceful La Rosaleda garden. Set away from the main pathway before you reach the cable cars, there was only a handful of people strolling in between the rows and rows of rosebeds.   I was amazed at the array of colours, neatly groomed pathways and thoughtfully laid out garden.   The flowers come from all over the world and it’s a spectacular sight when they are all in bloom.  Several fountains and pergolas add to the ambiance.  Instantly relaxed, we wandered through the garden and sat for a while on one of the benches scattered throughout.  A peaceful haven so close to the hustle and bustle of the Plaza de Espana!

Here are a couple photos I took in early June … it’s become one of my favorite spots in Madrid and I think it’s definitely worth a visit (especially if you enjoy taking photos or need some peace and quiet!).

 

 

 

La Rosaleda garden located within the Parque del Oeste (near la Calle de Francisco and Calle de Quintana.

When moving to Madrid, or any new place for that matter, everyone has a long list of to-do’s once they arrive and a variety of concerns about their new home city.  For those of us with specific dietary needs, it can be daunting not knowing what food will be available – especially when the traditional foods clash with our requirements.  Coming from New York City where absolutely everything seems available within walking distance at any time of day, I wondered how Madrid would stack up and if indeed its famous hospitality would extend to accommodating people with special diets.  Luckily, with very little exploration I found a variety of options with the city center.

I have been gluten free for a year now and packed my carryon with gluten-free crackers for my flight over, but I definitely didn’t have enough to last me long after my arrival.  My first trip to the supermercado at Cortes Ingles brought a wave of relief … a large “Sin Gluten” (without gluten) section sat right up front.  In fact, Cortes Ingles has a large variety of gluten-free, lactose-free, and health food products.  The selection varies based on which store you visit, but both the shops between Callao and Sol metro stops have good sized special foods sections.  The shop at Nuevos Ministerios is the largest and most diverse I have found so far.  Other supermarket options for celiacs and those with gluten sensitivities are OpenCor, who have a similar but smaller selection than Cortes Ingles, and Mercadona, who have shops all over Spain.

If you’re looking for a more intimate shopping experience, Nature and Clark is a gourmet market located just south of Calle de Fernando VI on Hortaleza (on the border between Malasaña and Chueca).  I wandered in recently and was surprised at the variety of dietary needs the small store covers.  While the selection of gluten free products is quite small, they also sell Kosher and macrobiotic supplies.

So those should keep you covered for dining at home, but what about eating out?  Spanish tapas are world-renowned and tapas restaurants are scattered all over Madrid.  Figuring out what tapas dishes you can or cannot eat takes a few questions and some trial and error.  If you’re gluten-free, stay away from croquettas (even the filling contains flour), empanadas and the tostas but feel free to dig into tortilla española or tortilla de patatas as it is called in some parts of the country (people have had to re-assure me over and over again that it’s just eggs and potatoes), patatas bravas (spicy potatoes), gambas (shrimp), pimientos del padrón (peppers) and of course the jamon (ham)!  And if you’re craving a little taste of America, don’t fear … McDonalds has gluten free bread available for their hamburgers!

Having to skip the pan and empanadas is frustrating at times; however, I think our vegetarian friends have a tougher go of it in the land of jamon!  Some suggestions for vegetarians can be found in Alison’s post Viva la Vida – Vegetarian Style.

I would love to hear any other great restaurants or shops that you have found.  Feel free to share in the comments!