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Five Restaurants that Make A “Madrilena” Miss Madrid

Five Restaurants that Make A “Madrilena” Miss Madrid

Pilar Orti lives in London and is the author of The A to Z of Spanish Culture. Here, she shares the Five Restaurants that Make A “Madrilena” Miss Madrid – and not all are Spanish, surprisingly ! And they are so different from the typical, trendy places in all guides. All yours Pilar

I left Spain over 20 years ago out of choice. What I didn’t expect was that I would never get used to not having excellent food within arms’ reach. I go back to Madrid often and spend most of my time eating out with friends or buying food to bring back to London with me. The relación calidad-precio is difficult to beat anywhere else. I usually go back for just a weekend, but if I’m there for a week or longer, I make sure I visit the following places. If you have some time in the city this summer, you might like to try them too.

La Terapia.

Let’s face it, this is just a cafeteria, but the food is really superb. And so is the service.

It is located in the relatively new neighbourhood of San Chinarro, in the North of Madrid. The barrio is populated by young couples and so there is a really laid back feeling to the neighbourhood. La Terapia has a large terraza and this is for me, its main attraction. The terraza is situated on a large bit of sidewalk and so you can comfortably enjoy your food without the traffic bothering you.

La Terapia. c/ Príncipe Carlos. San Chinarro.

(Located around the middle part of the street.)

Entre jamones.

As its name suggests, if you fancy tasting some quality jamón, this is the place to go.

Entre jamones is situated near Avenida de América, and like La Terapia, it has a decent terraza (although this one is quite close to the traffic). If you are the kind of person that likes hopping from place to place, this might be a good choice as there are plenty of other bars and terrazas in Corazon de María to choose from.

Entre Jamones. Corazón de María, 46. (Note that there are two restaurants, pick the one on the corner.)


This might be an odd suggestion, but if you want to spend hours talking with your friends in a quiet terraza, while you taste different kind of Asian dishes, this might be the place for you.

Chin-Chin has a sitting-down all-you-can-eat buffet. This means that you sit at your table and order the different dishes as they take your fancy. It is the best way to have a bit of sushi with a bit of rice, some meat dishes, some noodles…

I can’t really say that it is the best Chinese restaurant in Madrid, but if you find yourself in the Arturo Soria/Avd de America area, it might be worth a try.

Chin-Chin. c/ Torrelaguna, 69.

El Automático

As you might have guessed, I like quiet places and one of the reasons why I continue to visit the three other places I’ve mentioned, is because, unless I turn up at a particularly busy times, I can always find a table.

This is not the case with El Automático. This bar is located in the middle of the neighbourhood of Lavapiés, bang in the centre of Madrid. However, what this bar has that makes me cross Madrid at the risk of having to sit uncomfortably while I eat my food, are its croquetas. They really are pretty amazing. And if you also order dátiles con bacon, then your culinary paradise will be complete.

El Automático. c/ Argumosa, 17.

Jamón José Jiménez

Lastly, I have to mention this charcutería.

 The thing I miss most in London is the jamón. Even since I was a student, my mother used to order jamón from José for me to take back. It meant I could always prepare a decent meal in a few minutes: eggs with ham, pasta with ham, peas with ham, rice with ham or just ham and bread, the best way to enjoy this ham.

Twenty years ago I used to travel with a kilo of sliced ham wrapped up in its own fat, to make sure it didn’t dry up. Now I travel with five or six vacuum sealed packs, which last me much longer.

So, if you are a fan of jamón or any other pig-based ibérico products, pop in to see José and send him my regards.

José Jiménez. c/ Gaztambide, 68.


Tapas Fair

Tapas Fair

After seven successful installations, the Tapas Fair has returned to Madrid. Starting tomorrow, Thursday June 21st, the Palacio de Deportes (metro: Goya) will convert itself into a giant bar of sorts where you can sample some of Madrid’s best tapas accompanied by a caña of Mahou.

Thirty-eight different bars and restaurants will participate in this year’s feria, each with their own small stand offering a few of their signature dishes from madrileño classics to inventive new plates.

Each tapa will cost €1,20 and each caña will also cost €1,20. There also non-alcoholic drinks available at the stands. In past years, these transactions have taken places using fichas – small commemorative coins that you must purchase in advance at the Palacio de Deportes ticket window or at special stands within the event, so keep that in mind as you rush in with an empty stomach!

This year’s Tapas Fair runs from Thursday, June 21st to Sunday, June 24th, with a split timetable of 1200-430pm and again at 8pm-midnight. Entrance to the event is free.

Madrid Food Tour

Madrid Food Tour

…is through your stomach.

Lauren, founder and tour guide. Photo by Cassandra Gambill

I would like to introduce you all, faithful guiris, to Lauren Aloise’s Madrid Food Tour. This tour provides a custom assortment of Madrid’s finest cuisine, hand-picked by one very passionate guiri.

Lauren is an expat from Massachusetts who has lived in Granada, Sevilla, Cádiz, and Madrid. Her already existing passion for food increased immensely after living in Spain, marrying her very own Spaniard, and meeting her suegra, Antonia. Thanks to time abroad and the lessons learned from her mother-in-law, Lauren has learned a great deal about Spanish cuisine and has found a way to share it with the world! In addition to running Madrid Food Tour, Lauren writes both Spanish Sabores (in English) and Recetas Americanas (in Spanish), two excellent resources for anyone interested in Spanish or American cuisine.

Madrid Food Tour’s “signature tour” includes samples of various Spanish treats widely available in Madrid at both popular and unique stops around the city. The tour typically takes from three to four hours during off-peak times so that those on the tour can see Madrid in a way that most tour groups don’t typically get to experience. Not only does the tour hit all the general flavor groups–sweet, savory, and everything in between–Lauren shares some history and information about every plate sampled. Want to know what’s in what you’re eating? Where it comes from? Just ask!

Does the signature tour not sound like what you’re looking for? Want to try something a bit more off-beat or specific to your tastes? Do you have the most discerning of palates? Again… just ask! The best part of these tours is that they are almost entirely customizable based on what you like, so if Andrew Zimmern’s bizarre tastes inspire you to try something completely new and different, let Lauren know!

The Madrid Food Tour website can be found here, and tours are available now! Tell them Guiri Guide sent you, and then let us know how much you loved it!

Madrid on the cheap

Madrid on the cheap

Want to save some of these?

Living in Madrid can be pricey, despite it being a relatively inexpensive capital city. Groupon, LetsBonus, Planeo. Do these words mean anything to you? If not, they should. These three websites are incredible ways to experience a city for a very low price, and now they are all flourishing in Spain. They all have the same premise – bringing you great deals on everything from meals to classes and new experiences. Madrid on the cheap will make you having so much fun saving money!

Groupon – Through this website, I’ve purchased a watch that I wear almost daily (6€) and a set of ten yoga classes at a center in northern Madrid (19€).

LetsBonus – This site, a partner of LivingSocial, has brought me together with 100 of my favorite photos, printed on paper and shipped to my door, for less than 10€.

Planeo – I just bought a Mexican dinner for two for just 19€, which includes a starter, two courses, dessert, and four drinks. Toma!

At each of their respective websites (in Spanish), you can sign up for daily emails that outline the day’s details. Just specify your preferred city – Madrid, of course – and get ready to start enjoying! Thanks to companies like these, a lot of up-and-coming bars, restaurants, and even some of the well-known theaters are jumping on the discount bandwagon as a way to advertise and keep business coming in. Has a money-saving experience led you to a new favorite spot? Let us know!

Un buen cocido

Un buen cocido

Even wine can be madrileño

One way to become a true Madrileño is to learn the customs and try out the traditions while living in Madrid. This means constant strolling through Retiro, eating churros after dancing all night, and sipping wine on a terraza. In the winter months, one great madrileño treasure is the cocido madrileño, a stew-like dish that will warm your bones after the harsh winds rip through tiny streets in Huertas and leave you congelado.

The history of this meaty, chickpea-laden meal isn’t 100% clear – some sources say cocido first emerged as far back as the Middle Ages, common in lower-class homes due to the relatively inexpensive cost of the ingredients. During the time of the Inquisition, many pork products such as chorizo and morcilla were added to typical plates of cocido, forcing some Jewish citizens to integrate these meats into the meals in order to prove they were Christians and avoid expulsion. Once cocido was finally accepted by high society, it became a staple of Madrid’s bar and restaurant scene during the Spanish civil war and has remained that way ever since.

Last week I read about the Ruta del Cocido Madrileño – similar to the Tapas crawls that happen once or twice a year around town. Having never tried cocido anywhere but at home, I called up fellow Guiri Guide author Laura and we headed over to Taberna Madrid in Plaza Jacinto Benavente to try their mini cocido – a safe stepping stone into the wild world of cocido madrileño.

Cocido raro, but delicious!

Traditional cocido is often served in vuelcos, or “overturns”. Traditionally the ingredients all served separately – first the broth (caldo), then the vegetables, and finally the meat, which is where each vuelco comes in, as the pot is to be turned over to empty out that course’s contents. As you can see in the picture above, Taberna Madrid’s mini cocido is served all at once, in the form of a stew. This is less common than having it course-style, so if you want authenticity, demand it in vuelcos!

La Ruta del Cocido Madrileño runs until the end of March, giving you plenty of time to scope out your favorite restaurants and try a few different takes on this Madrid classic. Be sure to check the list of participating restaurants to see if you’ll need a reservation, and make sure you go on an eligible day. Cocidos range from 8€ to 35€ per plate, some with drink and dessert included. Aproveche!