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As someone who was born and raised in the New York metropolitan area, I consider myself a bit of a pizza snob.  Luckily for me, moving to Madrid did not mean having to give up my consumption of delicious pizza on a far too regular basis.  The city has a wide range of pizza options so I wanted to share some of my favorites for those who share my pizza tooth:

Pizzaiolo: This small pizza restaurant on Hortaleza is arguably my favorite place to get pizza in Madrid. It was first recommended to us by our Italian friend, and after having eaten there several times, I can see why.  The generous pies have a superb crust and the toppings are all fresh and perfectly seasoned. The Primavera, with jamón Serrano and arugula, is a personal favorite. They also have a variety of pasta dishes which all look delicious, but I can never seem to deviate from the pizza. A word of advice – this place is almost always packed. Try to make a reservation if possible, and if not, swing by about 30-60 minutes before you want to eat and they will take your name and number and call you when a table opens up.  Raul and I have done this several times since there are a million places nearby to have a pre-pizza wine or caña.

Fratelli la Bufala: This new place opened up only a few months ago and it has already turned into a bit of a hot spot.  On the corner of Calle Santa Teresa and Calle Argensola, this global franchise with roots in Milan finally opened up its first outpost in Madrid (there are existing restaurants in, among other places, Barcelona, Miami, London and Istanbul).  Needless to say, Raul and I went there immediately and really enjoyed it.  The restaurant, which prides itself on its natural and fresh ingredients, features pizzas that are all made to order in a fire-burning oven.  There was also a nice wine list and some pasta and salads that looked appetizing as well. The waiter told us the tiramisu was noteworthy, but after the rather generous servings of pizza, we just could not keep eating.

Toto e Peppino: Toto e Pepino has the feel of a place that has been around forever.  The ambience is the opposite of trendy, but the pizza is quite good, albeit a bit pricier than some of the other options listed.

Pizza Marzano: This is a Spanish chain restaurant that I went to with my parents. It does not have the cozy and/or authentic feel that some of the other ones have (it definitely has more of that “chain restaurant ambience”) but it is a large place with a big menu that is not a bad option if you are in the city center.

Duomo´s: Duomo´s is for those nights where you just need pizza delivered to your door. While the pizza is nowhere near the caliber of the pizzas above, I find it much better than the other chain delivery options that I have tried (i.e. Telepizza and Domino´s).   With the “menú para dos”, consisting of a medium pizza, two drinks and a side for €17, the price is also a positive factor.

Let me know in the comments any other pizza places worth checking out in Madrid.  ¡Mangiare bene!

Pizzaiolo

Calle Hortaleza, 84

Fratelli la Bufala

Calle Argensola, 7

Toto e Peppino

Calle Fernando VI, 29

Pizza Marzano

Various

Duomo´s

Various

 

I’m a WiFi café junky. Nothing gets my creative juices flowing like leaving the casa and holing up in some shop where booming Spanish voices manage to drown out my own thoughts. Somehow, it works for me.

One of my favorite WiFi hangouts these days is the semi-new (2010) eno-biblio-café (name coined by me, gracias!) where you can work, read and imbibe in one fell swoop. Sounds like bliss, verdad?

If a coffee isn’t your thing, you can choose from their list of wines – my suggestion: a glass of the Ad Libitum Rioja. After all, nothing pairs better with a book and free Internet than a good glass of vino!

And it’s more than just a book shop where you can get tipsy and buy Spanish books you might never read. Hiding below transparent panels of glass, the bottom floor comes to life with vibrantly painted bright orange walls covered by various art expositions.

Between the wine, books and art, it’s a miracle I ever get anything done!

Tipos Infames
San Joaquín, 3
28004 Madrid
915 228 939

 

My sister enjoying the view from The Penthouse

Living in Madrid one cannot help but notice the abundance of bars and restaurants that this city has to offer.  Now that summer is in full swing and most of the locals have fled the city to invade the beach, it is the perfect time to explore these places and enjoy Madrid from one if its many terrazas.  

If you are looking to dine al aire libre, I recently discovered Nihil Prius, a lovely modern Mediterranean restaurant located near the Banco de España. The terrace is not street-level but rather two flights up, affording both tranquility and privacy while enjoying your meal. The food was also excellent as well as reasonably priced considering the setting. 

For those looking for a beer or cocktail instead, I have a bit more experience in that arena.  I cannot think of many better places for an afternoon beer or wine outside than la terraza of El Espejo, located on Paseo Recoletos near Plaza Colon. If you are lucky, you will be there when of the piano players is performing, thereby enriching the atmosphere even more.  While you are in the neighborhood, there is a concentration of bars with outdoor seating in Plaza Santa Barbara, including Bulevar, Cruz Blanca, and Cervecería Santa Barbara. Another terrace ideal for a drink during daylight hours is El Viajero in La Latina. It has great views of the city´s old quarter and has a fun, tropical vibe as well. The mojitos are also noteworthy.

For something a little fancier and after dark, there are several hotels with great rooftop bars, including Room Mate Óscar in Chueca, Hotel Urban in Barrio de las Letrasand The Penthouse in Plaza Santa Ana.  All of these places boast great views of the city, posh settings and great cocktails. On a warm, dry, Madrid summer night you really cannot go wrong.

Considering it is August, be sure to check ahead of time to make sure places are open before making the trek as I have noticed that many establishments enjoy a descanso just like the rest of us this month.   ¡Salud!

Nihil Prius

Calle Marques de Cubas, 2

 El Espejo

Paseo de Recoletos, 31

 El Viajero

Calle de la Cebada, 11

 Room Mate Óscar

Plaza Vázquez de Mella, 12

 Hotel Urban

Carrera de San Jerónimo, 34

 The Penthouse

Plaza de Santa Ana, 14

 

When moving to Madrid, or any new place for that matter, everyone has a long list of to-do’s once they arrive and a variety of concerns about their new home city.  For those of us with specific dietary needs, it can be daunting not knowing what food will be available – especially when the traditional foods clash with our requirements.  Coming from New York City where absolutely everything seems available within walking distance at any time of day, I wondered how Madrid would stack up and if indeed its famous hospitality would extend to accommodating people with special diets.  Luckily, with very little exploration I found a variety of options with the city center.

I have been gluten free for a year now and packed my carryon with gluten-free crackers for my flight over, but I definitely didn’t have enough to last me long after my arrival.  My first trip to the supermercado at Cortes Ingles brought a wave of relief … a large “Sin Gluten” (without gluten) section sat right up front.  In fact, Cortes Ingles has a large variety of gluten-free, lactose-free, and health food products.  The selection varies based on which store you visit, but both the shops between Callao and Sol metro stops have good sized special foods sections.  The shop at Nuevos Ministerios is the largest and most diverse I have found so far.  Other supermarket options for celiacs and those with gluten sensitivities are OpenCor, who have a similar but smaller selection than Cortes Ingles, and Mercadona, who have shops all over Spain.

If you’re looking for a more intimate shopping experience, Nature and Clark is a gourmet market located just south of Calle de Fernando VI on Hortaleza (on the border between Malasaña and Chueca).  I wandered in recently and was surprised at the variety of dietary needs the small store covers.  While the selection of gluten free products is quite small, they also sell Kosher and macrobiotic supplies.

So those should keep you covered for dining at home, but what about eating out?  Spanish tapas are world-renowned and tapas restaurants are scattered all over Madrid.  Figuring out what tapas dishes you can or cannot eat takes a few questions and some trial and error.  If you’re gluten-free, stay away from croquettas (even the filling contains flour), empanadas and the tostas but feel free to dig into tortilla española or tortilla de patatas as it is called in some parts of the country (people have had to re-assure me over and over again that it’s just eggs and potatoes), patatas bravas (spicy potatoes), gambas (shrimp), pimientos del padrón (peppers) and of course the jamon (ham)!  And if you’re craving a little taste of America, don’t fear … McDonalds has gluten free bread available for their hamburgers!

Having to skip the pan and empanadas is frustrating at times; however, I think our vegetarian friends have a tougher go of it in the land of jamon!  Some suggestions for vegetarians can be found in Alison’s post Viva la Vida – Vegetarian Style.

I would love to hear any other great restaurants or shops that you have found.  Feel free to share in the comments!

I’ve had a guest or two come visit in Spain, and the last night before they leave, I always like to take them for dinner in the famous caves of El Molar. The non-touristy spot boasts a unique atmosphere and meat so stupidly good that even vegetarians might very well face an identity crisis.

Spaniards often flock to the pueblo about 40 minutes north of Madrid on the A1. The lower part of the town might not be anything to write home about, but up above, in the tunnel-filled mountainside, the charm overtakes you.

The caves, once used mostly as bodegas, now often inhabit restaurants. At El Bodegón de Olivares, my favorite for meat, you can cook a kilo of raw carne on a heated clay plate. The fact that you’re dining in your own personal mini-cave while noshing on fresh mouth-watering meat is just the icing on the caveman cake.

If meat isn’t your thing (which, honestly, it will be after a trip to El Bodegón de Olivares), then you should hit up La Taberna Marinera. Of its two locations (the other called El Matador – it’s connected by a cave!), this one, which specializes in fish, is an essential stop. The rustic restaurant is muy chulo, the food riquísima, and the service can’t be beat (the same Columbian waiter is always there – really nice fellow). And to top it all off, ask for a candle and they’ll let you take a little mosey through the cave. Just be sure to watch your head.

El Bodegón de Olivares: 918410000 / Calle La Cuesta 2
La Taberna Marinera: 918410393 / Calle La Torreta