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This past September 15th marked my two year anniversary in Madrid. This milestone (which came incredibly quickly by the way) prompted me to do some reflecting about life and learning since moving to Madrid:

  • Spanish food and wine have exceeded my expectations in every way. Neither my semester in Valencia in 2001 nor the emergence of Spanish cuisine in NYC exposed me enough to the diversity in the Spanish dining landscape.  From the fabadas and sidra in Asturias to the pescaito frito and Manzanilla in Seville, I have never before been so gastronomically stimulated.
  • Making friends was harder than I thought. Before I came here, I had visions of making loads of new friends at work, whether through happy hours, apartment parties, long nights at the office or what have you. That has not been the case. I learned that (at least at the company I work for) happy hours and apartment parties are not a big thing here (as compared to the States) and people, while extremely friendly, are generally not really looking to make new friends. While I have been greeted with nothing but kindness, the experience was more isolating than I expected. Luckily I was able to connect with some fellow expats (and the amigos of my Spanish novio) and have finally been able to expand my local network and feel much more at home.
  • Transportation in Madrid (and Spain for that matter) is world-class. The Madrid metro is spotless and efficient (albeit a bit overcrowded during rush hour), the bus lanes should be a model for other big cities (take note NYC), the roads seem to have been designed in hindsight (the way the traffic flows in certain parts of the city is genius) and the national AVE rail always manage to make the proverbial “journey” a pleasure.
  • Embarrassingly enough, I still cannot say “Hasta luego” and “Madrid” properly (despite my best efforts).  I feel like a poseur every time I try to pull it off like a native. I have no idea why these words are so hard for me, but they just do not and will not roll off my tongue. Anyone else have this problem?
  • Working in Spanish has been easier than I thought (but certainly not easy).  As I noted in an earlier post, I was initially terrified of working in Spanish, especially in the high-pressure corporate environment that I was thrust into upon arriving here. I am happy to report that my fears, while healthy, were mostly unfounded. My coworkers and clients have immeasurable patience with me, enough people know English to help me out when I stumble, and even when I make mistakes, people usually get the idea. Due to all of these factors, I was able to get by until I improved, which happened rather organically through the 10+ hour per day trial by fire.
  • I am finally (finally!) getting used to the vast difference in size of the unspoken “personal space sphere” in Spain versus the US.  Take the metro, walk down the street, see for yourself. I have never in my life stood so physically close to people when it is not mandated by a lack of space.  This elevator is huge – why are you so close to me?!  We are walking right at each other, why won’t you yield?! After two years I have finally come to accept this cultural difference and my daily anxiety levels have decreased as a result.  Serenity ahora.

After two years I can confidently say that I feel really at home here.  I found a network of people that I can trade stories and spend time with, I am in a good routine at work, I know my way around the city quite well, and I know almost everything on the menu when I go out to eat.  For those of you just arriving in Madrid, know that this level of comfort takes time and patience, and the trials and challenges along the way are those things that make you appreciate getting there even that much more in the end.

When I first moved to Madrid I was really nervous to start my job. I had nightmares about suddenly freezing up when my boss asked me a question in Spanish, or having a client try to explain something to me that I would simply not be capable of comprehending. To assuage my fears, my novio Raúl told me not to worry because when in doubt I can just answer in English. 

That sounded simple enough, I thought, so when I started working and finding myself in those dreaded situations where I just could not come up with the word I was looking for, I said the word in English and hoped for the best.  Much to Raul’s surprise, I was met with many confused glances and blank stares.  I told him the words I said in English, and he was shocked that my Spanish colleagues did not understand, especially since I was primarily using financial terms that are often said English, even in Spain.   This continued as such until I discovered the nifty trick of saying the word in English, but with a Spanish accent.

Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would be saying words such as Blackbeddy (Blackberry), oosernamay, (username), weefee (wifi), and tocks (tax), but this is my new reality and my life is so much easier as a result. I even started saying my last name with a Spanish accent (saying Leench instead of Lynch is really just so much easier for everyone). 

My new system had me feeling great until the last time I was home visiting my family.  Over dinner one night, my father gently told me that I was developing a bit of a strange accent in English.  I was slightly horrified but mostly amused.  Here I am having trouble with my Spanish pronunciation and speaking my native language with a foreign accent. I can´t win!  (As an aside, I am sensitive to the fact that people who speak languages other than English need to do the same exercise so people like me can understand!)

Fortunately I have come to terms with my new accent and decided it can only make me more mysterious and exotic to my fellow Americans when I am back home, in the same vein as other US expats such as Madonna, Gwyneth and Angelina.  Whether this is a good thing or a bad thing remains to be seen.

Has anyone else taken up Eengleesh since moving to Madrid?

Guiri Guest, Anne Grant Anderson and her husband moved to Madrid from Seattle, WA in the US.  She works for a non-profit that advocates for improved public education in Washington State and is passionate about education and education policy.  In her ‘tiempo libre’ she enjoys reading, cooking, walking her dog Abby, blogging, and photography.

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For many of us, free wireless has become a necessity – whether for work or play, we’re hooked. As someone who is dependent on wireless internet access in order to work remotely from Seattle, Washington, I hit the pavement in search of a cozy spot to curl up with my laptop and a café con leche.

And what did I discover? Wireless, or “wifi” (pronounced wee-fee) doesn’t magically appear on every street corner, but it does exist. I started out at the standbys – Starbucks and VIPS – where you buy something and get a code for a limited amount of time online. I was surprised to find that places like McDonalds and El Corte Ingles have networks, but I wanted more…I wanted a place that felt warm, inviting, and didn’t make me feel like I was being kicked out every time my wireless ‘time’ was up.

A few lovely discoveries at the top of my list include:

  • El Azul de Fucar, Calle Fucar, 5

I walked into this place and felt at home at once. You are welcomed by a case of gorgeous pastries and can choose a bench or table to make yourself comfortable at. Another bonus is their food menu that includes vegetarian options (a plus for us rare few who avoid the jamon!).

  • Harina, Plaza de la Independencia, 10

Harina takes the cake – literally. Not only is the place flooded with sunlight, but you’ll feel right at home with the whitewashed walls and bistro tables. And the coffee, bread, pastries, and cake won’t disappoint.

It may not be quite as cozy, but it’s right across from IE business school and is owned and operated by an IE alum and his wife. When we first arrived in Madrid, we stopped in here feeling overwhelmed and intimidated by apartment hunting. The owner literally pulled out his laptop and helped us with our search! They also have specialty drinks like mochas and vanilla latte’s.

I also discovered this website that’s helpful in a pinch, but the destinations I’ve checked out so far have been hit or miss…free (gratis) wifi.

Best of luck exploring the wired world of Madrid!

Recently I have noticed that some foreigners living in Madrid change their name when talking to Spaniards. I have personally given up on using my real name ‘Jodie’ when booking restaurants or appointments as it takes too long to go over the spelling several times. For example

So, if we have a table reservation, my name is now ‘Julia’ or ‘hoo-Lia’ as it is pronounced in Spanish

Courtney finds that people don’t want to say their name because it is so unfamiloar. She has to use El Corte Ingles comparisons.

Stephanie finds it a little easier, she just adapts by adding E in front of it and changing the ph, so that she is known as Estefania.

And by boyfriend is no longer John, he is now Juan.

So, if you find it difficult giving your name….we suggest that you make yourself up a new one!

Believe it or not, it took 9 months for me to realize that I had English TV. I am the first to realize that yes, I am the stupid one (ok, WE are the stupid ones) but I think honestly if I had English TV before now, things would be very different. Firstly, I honestly watch TV to improve my Spanish.  I put on closed captioning and read when I watch the Spanish news channels.  Watching the news is great because it’s typically not slang and they talk incredibly fast, which helps tremendously when holding conversations with the average person.  Secondly, if I had had English TV I would have bypassed all the fun in watching cheesy Spanish programs or sitting amused with the specific dubbing actor’s voice selected for popular TV programs from home. So in the end, I’m not angry.  I don’t feel like 9 months were waisted.  But WOW do I appreciate the relief of some familiar shows again…in their native language and voices!

If you have truly thought it through and you feel it is also time for you to get “Original Version” TV in your home, then follow these [embarrassingly] simple steps:

  1. Select ‘Audio’ on your remote control
  2. Select ‘Audio Track’
  3. Move between the options until you have selected the original langauge you’re searching for
  4. Voila!

*This method does NOT work on all channels which may be showing something originally in another language

**This method should work with most cable providers but is not guaranteed

For more details on selecting languages or setting up your TV visit Spain Expat.