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Two Years in Madrid

Two Years in Madrid

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This past September 15th marked my two year anniversary in Madrid. This milestone (which came incredibly quickly by the way) prompted me to do some reflecting about life and learning since moving to Madrid:

  • Spanish food and wine have exceeded my expectations in every way. Neither my semester in Valencia in 2001 nor the emergence of Spanish cuisine in NYC exposed me enough to the diversity in the Spanish dining landscape.  From the fabadas and sidra in Asturias to the pescaito frito and Manzanilla in Seville, I have never before been so gastronomically stimulated.
  • Making friends was harder than I thought. Before I came here, I had visions of making loads of new friends at work, whether through happy hours, apartment parties, long nights at the office or what have you. That has not been the case. I learned that (at least at the company I work for) happy hours and apartment parties are not a big thing here (as compared to the States) and people, while extremely friendly, are generally not really looking to make new friends. While I have been greeted with nothing but kindness, the experience was more isolating than I expected. Luckily I was able to connect with some fellow expats (and the amigos of my Spanish novio) and have finally been able to expand my local network and feel much more at home.
  • Transportation in Madrid (and Spain for that matter) is world-class. The Madrid metro is spotless and efficient (albeit a bit overcrowded during rush hour), the bus lanes should be a model for other big cities (take note NYC), the roads seem to have been designed in hindsight (the way the traffic flows in certain parts of the city is genius) and the national AVE rail always manage to make the proverbial “journey” a pleasure.
  • Embarrassingly enough, I still cannot say “Hasta luego” and “Madrid” properly (despite my best efforts).  I feel like a poseur every time I try to pull it off like a native. I have no idea why these words are so hard for me, but they just do not and will not roll off my tongue. Anyone else have this problem?
  • Working in Spanish has been easier than I thought (but certainly not easy).  As I noted in an earlier post, I was initially terrified of working in Spanish, especially in the high-pressure corporate environment that I was thrust into upon arriving here. I am happy to report that my fears, while healthy, were mostly unfounded. My coworkers and clients have immeasurable patience with me, enough people know English to help me out when I stumble, and even when I make mistakes, people usually get the idea. Due to all of these factors, I was able to get by until I improved, which happened rather organically through the 10+ hour per day trial by fire.
  • I am finally (finally!) getting used to the vast difference in size of the unspoken “personal space sphere” in Spain versus the US.  Take the metro, walk down the street, see for yourself. I have never in my life stood so physically close to people when it is not mandated by a lack of space.  This elevator is huge – why are you so close to me?!  We are walking right at each other, why won’t you yield?! After two years I have finally come to accept this cultural difference and my daily anxiety levels have decreased as a result.  Serenity ahora.

After two years I can confidently say that I feel really at home here.  I found a network of people that I can trade stories and spend time with, I am in a good routine at work, I know my way around the city quite well, and I know almost everything on the menu when I go out to eat.  For those of you just arriving in Madrid, know that this level of comfort takes time and patience, and the trials and challenges along the way are those things that make you appreciate getting there even that much more in the end.

Gluten Free Guiri: Living with Dietary Restrictions in Madrid

Gluten Free Guiri: Living with Dietary Restrictions in Madrid

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When moving to Madrid, or any new place for that matter, everyone has a long list of to-do’s once they arrive and a variety of concerns about their new home city.  For those of us with specific dietary needs, it can be daunting not knowing what food will be available – especially when the traditional foods clash with our requirements.  Coming from New York City where absolutely everything seems available within walking distance at any time of day, I wondered how Madrid would stack up and if indeed its famous hospitality would extend to accommodating people with special diets.  Luckily, with very little exploration I found a variety of options with the city center.

I have been gluten free for a year now and packed my carryon with gluten-free crackers for my flight over, but I definitely didn’t have enough to last me long after my arrival.  My first trip to the supermercado at Cortes Ingles brought a wave of relief … a large “Sin Gluten” (without gluten) section sat right up front.  In fact, Cortes Ingles has a large variety of gluten-free, lactose-free, and health food products.  The selection varies based on which store you visit, but both the shops between Callao and Sol metro stops have good sized special foods sections.  The shop at Nuevos Ministerios is the largest and most diverse I have found so far.  Other supermarket options for celiacs and those with gluten sensitivities are OpenCor, who have a similar but smaller selection than Cortes Ingles, and Mercadona, who have shops all over Spain.

If you’re looking for a more intimate shopping experience, Nature and Clark is a gourmet market located just south of Calle de Fernando VI on Hortaleza (on the border between Malasaña and Chueca).  I wandered in recently and was surprised at the variety of dietary needs the small store covers.  While the selection of gluten free products is quite small, they also sell Kosher and macrobiotic supplies.

So those should keep you covered for dining at home, but what about eating out?  Spanish tapas are world-renowned and tapas restaurants are scattered all over Madrid.  Figuring out what tapas dishes you can or cannot eat takes a few questions and some trial and error.  If you’re gluten-free, stay away from croquettas (even the filling contains flour), empanadas and the tostas but feel free to dig into tortilla española or tortilla de patatas as it is called in some parts of the country (people have had to re-assure me over and over again that it’s just eggs and potatoes), patatas bravas (spicy potatoes), gambas (shrimp), pimientos del padrón (peppers) and of course the jamon (ham)!  And if you’re craving a little taste of America, don’t fear … McDonalds has gluten free bread available for their hamburgers!

Having to skip the pan and empanadas is frustrating at times; however, I think our vegetarian friends have a tougher go of it in the land of jamon!  Some suggestions for vegetarians can be found in Alison’s post Viva la Vida – Vegetarian Style.

I would love to hear any other great restaurants or shops that you have found.  Feel free to share in the comments!

English movie theaters in Madrid

English movie theaters in Madrid

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How’s your Spanish? If it’s like mine, it’s not particularly great. For me, seeing a movie in Spanish, without English subtitles, is more work than entertainment. And that’s what the movies are to me, entertainment. I want to sit back, relax, and start eating the giant Milke chocolate bar I’ve smuggled into the theater.

There are some good options for English movies here in Madrid. The largest of the English theaters is Cine Ideal, located near Sol in Plaza San Jacinto Benavente. The complex is large and hosts the latest films, conveniently in V.O.S. (version original subtitulada – which is most often English). If you happen to be in possession of a student ID card, show it when you purchase your ticket and your ticket will cost 9Euro. You can also purchase tickets online. Cine Ideal also features movies in 3D. Before the holidays I saw the latest Narnia in 3D here, and although the film was just ok I did enjoy wearing those goofy 3D glasses.

Another great English movie option is the Renoir theaters. They have locations all over the city (and Spain), and although the theaters are smaller they usually have a least one English movie playing. The Renoir theater closest to me is Renoir Retiro, which has 4 theaters and usually 1-2 are English movies. Mondays are discount days here and the ticket costs between 3-5Euro.

These two theaters are my favorite English theaters here in Madrid. Cine Ideal is perfect for a giant selection of new movies. It does get crowded on the weekends so do come early to get your tickets. On the other side, Renoir Retiro is quiet, small, and very close to my apartment, which makes me love it even more.

Note: Some theaters require you to choose your seat when you purchase your ticket, so if you are going with a group try and purchase your tickets together to ensure you get to sit as a group.

Happy viewing!